Step one: look upon the water with anticipation of a grand ol' time.

Step 2: paddle out with total confidence in skills and determination.

Step 3: Come flying into shore at moch 4 with no hope for survival, all the while screaming like a little girl as salt water flies in your face and there's no hope in God's green earth that you'll even be able to get your scared out of your mind ass off the board into a standing position, cuz let's face it, you're not entirely CRAZY !! note how the instructor with the hat looks on in amazement at my complete lack of skill and class.

Step 4: thank the all mighty Beach God's that you're still alive and pray that you never have to experience such horror again.

Now I'd like to mention now that B+ did just fine...

Show off!
Also, while it doesn't look all that threatening...the waves that is, and B+ certainly makes it look as if it's nothing to do this, like riding a bicycle or eating a delicious pastry, something you do once, you never forget, it was a lot different while you're out there. I realize these waves hardly compare to waves in northern Aus, or Hawaii say, but to me, they were mammoth. There's nothing like a giant wall of water coming at you to say "hey, STUPID, what the FUCK are you doing in my way". Of course, once I figured out that one should attack the waves straight on and not cower in fear while holding your board up in a protective stance to guard yourself from said wave, it was marginally less freighting...and painful.
I may try it again....I may not. It remains to be seen as I can still taste the salt water that went up my nose and down the back of my throat to remind myself of the "incident".
1 Love Me:
Oh McB, I give you MAD props. You defiitely gave it a valiant effort!! The ocean can be brutal, and for all of the time I lived near the ocean, I've never even attempted to surf.
(I think the three tries rule is a good one.)
--snow
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